Detroit City Profile

Sometimes when I read a city’s profile in a magazine (those propaganda pieces on an airline’s in-flight magazine come to mind), I think, “yeah, that’s nice, but does anyone really do this stuff?”

I can say, though, here in the Detroit Metro area, the answer is indubitably, “yes.”

Some Basics

First, a point of distinction: “Detroit” refers to the city and its neighborhoods: Midtown, downtown, Greektown, Mexicantown, Eastern Market, and the like. “Detroit Metro” area refers to all the suburbs and exburbs and counties and townships that extend, sometimes as far as 50 miles, from the city.

Detroit is known for cars, and that association is more than just reputation-based. The metro area extends to at least three counties: Oakland; Macomb; and Wayne. There is no viable public transportation. Of course, there are buses, and taxis, and a very strange “People Mover” that runs on a continuous loop downtown, but in Detroit, everyone drives. Everyone. This means there are abundant car washes in every part of town. This also leads to some of the worst traffic and commutes known to man.

Because a lot of Detroit’s infrastructure was set up before the car became ubiquitous, the major exchanges (I-75, I-94, I-96) can get quite hairy. For instance, one sunny Thursday afternoon in July, I was delayed over an hour just attempting to merge from I-75 south onto I-94 west. The crazy thing is that some people do this every day.

Industry in Detroit is all things automotive. There’s what’s known as “The Big Three” (Chrysler, Ford and General Motors), and their suppliers, organized and identified by tiers. As the domestic auto industry continues to suffer, the economy in Michigan worsens. Detroit is much like a very large “factory town.” When the factory suffers, so does everyone else. A recent newspaper article revealed even plastic surgery numbers are down. (“Cosmetic surgery, like economy, needs a lift.” Detroit Free Press, 2/23/07.) Despite the downturn, though, there are positions available in healthcare, non-profits, government, and the media.

Where to Live

At the risk of beating the point to death, the commute is a factor. Not everyone who lives in Southeast Michigan works in downtown Detroit; however, depending upon your work’s location, there may be more choices for setting up camp. Detroit’s suburbs’ populations benefited greatly from the historical phenomenon of “white flight,” and some of them grew into cities themselves: Southfield, Troy, Rochester and Livonia to name a few.

I live in Royal Oak, which is located about 11 miles north of the city. Roads north of downtown are named after their mileage there from. Before I moved here, all I knew of Detroit geography, like many Ohioans, was of course, “Eight Mile.” These “mile” roads extend far both east and west, and number into the high twenties.

Both Royal Oak and Ferndale, which is just south of Royal Oak, are fabulous spots for the fresh-out-of-college (or in my case, law school) set. The housing is relatively affordable- my future husband and I are renting a 2 bedroom house with a nice front and back yard for under $1000/month. Apartments can be had for approximately $600/month, and there are tons of loft and condo options, too. We found the house on Craigslist [www.craigslist.com], butt if you have the time and the luxury, driving around your community of choice armed with a cell phone, a pad and a pencil is likely to be your best bet. Both Royal Oak and Ferndale have a true “downtown” of their own, complete with very lively bar scenes, excellent restaurants, cozy coffee shops, unique boutiques, art theaters, gourmet groceries, and live music venues. Much of the housing is within walking distance to these “main” streets. I found this to be an extremely welcome change from Toledo, Ohio, where I moved from after completing my law degree. In Toledo, I walked to the video store or grocery when I fancied some fresh air, and was on the receiving end of honks and other insults. Here, I’m likely to pass many others on my walk to the pharmacy or to Sweetwaters, a local coffee shop, or back from the farmer’s market (Tuesdays and Saturdays: fresh produce, salsas, meat, and other sundries, on Sundays: flea market extravaganza), as I did this morning.

If you want to live closer to downtown Detroit, safety can be an issue. The Midtown neighborhood, experiencing a renaissance, is the perfect choice for those seeking an edgier scene. The Old Miami [www.theoldmiamidetroit.com], an excellent dive bar started by Vietnam Vets, showcases live music, and features a marvelous back yard, groomed to perfection and a startling contrast to the weed-choked, littered neighborhood. The drinks are cheap, and if it’s liquor you favor, be careful. The ladies pour and pour and pour. Honest John’s is a great sports bar a few blocks over, and culture abounds a few steps away. The Detroit Symphony Orchestra’s [www.detroitsymphony.com] home is in the beautiful Max M. Fisher Music Center. In addition to supplying classical music to metro Detroit, the venue is used for poetry slams, local artists, and this past New Year’s Eve, an amazing offering of techno pioneers for an all-night dance party. Wayne State University is a short walk to the north, and possesses many of the amenities one expects of a first-class campus: theatre, lectures, music and restaurants. Try the Cass Café [www.casscafe.com], a super place to grab lunch. The vibe is Case-esque. Finally, even Fido will love Midtown. Canine to Five [www.detroitdogdaycare.com] is a doggy daycare right on Cass Avenue. In addition to daycare, Canine to Five offers grooming and boarding. If you work downtown, it’s very convenient- plus, your dog will wear itself out yapping and chasing the other pooches. Housing in Midtown will be cheaper than most communities- either buying or renting.

If you’re thinking of raising a family, or already have one, you will most likely be interested in an area with a good public school system. These areas tend to be further from downtown Detroit, with higher property values: Birmingham, Bloomfield, Canton, Livonia, Northville, Plymouth, and Rochester, to name a few. A few have a nice “Main Street” feel- Birmingham is home to two movie theaters, tons of upscale restaurants and bars, and tiny shops full of expensive, exclusive items, all in a very walkable setting. Rochester is more quaint, but just as charming and accessible.


What to Eat

One simply cannot go hungry in Detroit. Detroit is home to some of the absolute best ethnic foods—including Lebanese, Greek, Mexican, Italian, Polish, Soul Food, and a little category I like to call Coney. Seriously, it’s a good thing I do all that walking.
If your experience with Middle Eastern food starts and ends with buggy on wheels parked on Union Street, then prepare to have your mind blown. Dearborn and Dearborn Heights, west of downtown, have pita, hummus, fatoosh, kibbe, tempeh and other delicacies resplendent to satisfy any palate, from novice to expert.

Greektown, located on the east side of downtown, is a gem. Turn down one street and the grit and grime of downtown melts away to an avenue of shops, restaurants, and delightful Greek music piped into the street. A popular spot for lunch for the working crowd, Greektown stays alive into the night- St Andrews Hall [http://www.motorcityrocks.com/stan.htm], a fantastic place for live music, is blocks away, and of course, Greektown Casino [www.greektowncasino.com] bumps into the wee hours. Did I mention the food? You haven’t had baklava till you’ve had it in Greektown.

Mexicantown offers yet another authentic touch. The signs on the buildings are in both Spanish and English, if there’s English at all. The menus reach beyond the usual suspects: the other morning, I had a dish made of scrambled eggs and cactus. Delicious! Plus the margs are great, strong, and cheap (I know the virtues important to an OU crowd).

Roma Café [www.romacafe.com] in the Eastern Market neighborhood is the oldest Italian restaurant in Detroit. It’s a bit like stepping back in time- the wait staff wears tuxedos, and one gets the feeling important deals and weighty political discussions are being had at every table. Plus, the chicken parm is out this world.

Detroit’s Hamtramck neighborhood [http://www.waynecounty.com/commun/hamtramck.html] is Polish pride served with style. The New Palace Bakery is a personal favorite- I bought nut rolls to take to a family gathering in Pittsburgh, Penn. – a tough crowd, considering my grandmother’s maiden name is Pacheski. The nut rolls were a hit, so were the pierogi, chruschici (cookies), and placek (coffeecake). The prices are more than fair, and the high school aged girls who work there all speak Polish. The lines for paczki on Fat Tuesday are rumored to wrap around the block, but ordinarily the line is tolerable.

Detroit takes its soul food seriously, as well. Soul food, into which I’m lumping bar-b-que, is important because its identity is uniquely American. Like its cars, and its music, Detroit prides itself on all things “homemade”. Beans ‘n’ Cornbread [www.beanscornbread.com], located in Southfield, is the top of the heap. Calling itself a “soulful bistro,” Beans ‘n’ Cornbread’s menu features items like fried catfish fingers, the Harlem burrito, Hoppin’ John and cornbread dressing.

In my opinion, the last word on bar-b-que in this city belongs to Slows, refined hole-in-the-wall spot east of the old Tiger Stadium. As an amateur bar-b-que aficionado (i.e. I will eat from roadside stands, trucks, trailers, upscale joints, dives, etc. in pursuit of the perfect rib), Slows [www.slowsbarbq.com] is the ticket. The meat, (which ranges from brisket to pork to chicken to beef) is served “naked,” ready to be dressed tableside with a bevy of homemade sauces. The sides are incredible: mac‘n’cheese, slaw, sweet potato casserole and more. Finally, the beer selection rocks.

Now, for the dark horse: I suppose my obsession with diners began in high school, when friends and I indulged in eggs, waffles and endless coffee at Waffle Houses and truck stops. And of course, my time at OU supported my habit: just writing this, my cravings for Union Street’s garbage omelets are audible. But there’s no place like the Detroit Metro area for a quick bite in a diner atmosphere. “Coney Island” or more popularly, “Coney’s,” are everywhere. They come in different variations: “Alex’s Coney Island,” “National Coney Island,” and sometimes, the word “coney” is not even in the title. But these smaller diner-style restaurants guarantee a few things: hot coffee, good fries of the shoestring variety, and of course, the coney dog: a hot dog juiced up and souped up with an assortment of accoutrements- onions, chili, cheese, you name it.
To understand the coney dog, one must start at Lafeyette Coney, in downtown Detroit. Here’s a sample order: “one up on two, light onion, heavy chili, with hot red pepper flakes and a Diet Vernors over ice on the side.” All walks of life frequent this Detroit Landmark. As with most all-night joints, the later it gets, the crazier it gets. See above reference to Union Street.


What to Do

Motown is not a nickname without reason. Although Berry Gordy packed up for L.A. decades ago, the reverence for music in Detroit is alive and well.

A few weeks ago, I stopped by the Oak City Grille here in Royal Oak. I figured I’d grab a spot at the bar and listen to a band I’d read about the in the paper. The place was swarming with people who all had the same idea. Once two seats finally opened up, beers were ordered, and fantastic music (no cover!) was enjoyed: the Gypsy Strings [www.myspace.com/gypsystringsofdetroit], a trio, performed well into the night. This is no extraordinary event: many smalls clubs, large clubs, restaurants and bars feature local artists. Midtown Underground [www.midtownunderground.com], a sweet funk band, plays all over and is definitely worth catching. Also, the Detroit Metro area has tons of indoor and outdoor venues that can host huge names. I saw the Red Hot Chili Peppers at the Palace of Auburn Hills [www.palacenet.com], a large indoor venue about 40 minutes north of the city. The tickets were under $60/person, even with all the convenience charges. The beers were seven bucks a pop, but you can’t have it all.

The list of homegrown talent isn’t short, either. Kid Rock, Eminem, Bob Seger, The White Stripes, Aretha Franklin are just a few with ties to Michigan.

If you’re the sports-loving type, then you, too, will have no less than four pro-sports teams to root for, and no, that does not include the University of Michigan. The Lions, The Tigers, The Red Wings, and The Pistons all play at home in Detroit, or close to it. Tickets are relatively affordable; even Tigers tickets can be had for under $15- which is pretty remarkable considering last season’s record. Comerica Park, home of the Tigers, is a fabulous place to see a game.

History is rich, too. The Charles H. Wright Museum of African-American History [www.maah-detroit.org] is housed in a newer building. Here’s an offering from the museum’s permanent collection, “And Still We Rise”:

“The journey begins in prehistoric Africa, the cradle of human life. Guests then witness several ancient and early modern civilizations that evolved on the continent. Crossing the Atlantic Ocean, they experience the tragedy of the middle passage and encounter those who resisted the horrors of bondage, emancipated themselves and sometimes took flight by way of the Underground Railroad. Throughout this trip, the efforts of everyday men and women who built families, businesses, educational institutions, spiritual traditions, civic organizations and a legacy of freedom and justice in past and present-day Detroit are hailed.”
- http://www.maah-detroit.org/exhibitions/and_still_we_rise.html

The Henry Ford [www.hfmgv.com] is another must-see. This “history destination” brings the American Experience early American life via Greenfield Village, a pseudo-town that shows the sights, sounds and settings of America’s past. Try the Ford Rouge Factory Tour and witness the intricate operation of manufacturing. The Henry Ford is purely American, and proud of it.

The Detroit Institute of the Arts [www.dia.org] is also worth the trip. An Ansel Adams exhibit runs through March, and though the collection is currently abbreviated due to construction, it is more than worth the “suggested” donation of $6/ per adult. Be sure to check out Detroit Industry, the enormous frescoes by Diego Rivera, which he considered his most important American work.

Finally, the state of Michigan is rich in natural beauty. North Michigan, which refers to the northern part of the Lower Peninsula, is border on both sides by Great Lakes, and as a result, has gorgeous lakeshores ripe for boating, sailing and swimming. The “U.P.” refers to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, and it too possesses abundant wild landscapes. An overnight canoe trip in the fall with future husband and beagle consisted of 20+ miles of unbelievable foliage, and hardly a soul to share it with (nice!). Outfitters abound, and so do pet-friendly, cheap motels on the way up. If you ask for pasties, which are a regional delicacy that resemble meat pies, make sure you say PAST-EE, not PAY-STEE, like this author; else they will recommend a trip to Las Vegas.

What to Read

An article for Scripps alums isn’t complete without a shout-out to our local publications in Detroit. Hour Magazine [www.hourdetroit.com], produced right in Royal Oak, is a monthly magazine spotlighting local events, restaurant reviews, and offering profiles of the movers and shakers. Detroit is one of those lucky American cities that actually have two newspapers- The Detroit News [www.detnews.com] and the Detroit Free Press [www.freep.com]- both excellent with very good local news coverage, as well as national. The tabloid style Detroit MetroTimes [www.metrotimes.com] and Real Detroit [www.realdetroitweekly.com] are great, too, if you can get past the sheer number of scantily clad women in their advertisements. A number of other rags are attuned to specific interests or groups: Between the Lines [www.pridesource.com], a gay and lesbian paper, and the various community-specific papers that are delivered or available for free, such as the Birmingham Eccentric [www.observer-eccentric.com].

Megan Rose is a 2003 Scripps graduate.