Friday, October 3, 2008

City Profile: New York City

City Profile: New York City
by Shannon Stucky

In thinking about this column and what pearls of wisdom I may have to share, two things strike me as rather ironic. First, working with native New Yorkers, I typically think of myself as somewhat of a novice in the ways of New York life. Second, I often think of my life as fairly mundane. After all, I still spend the majority of my time at work. There’s still laundry to be done, an apartment to be cleaned, and dishes to be washed.

But then there are those moments: I meticulously position myself in the Subway, so I’ll arrive directly in front of the exit at my next stop. I choose the perfect restaurant for an out-of-town guest. I look down at my feet and realize I’ve adopted the requisite black boots. It’s at these moments that I think perhaps I have learned a thing or two. And so I write—the Ohio girl I’ll always be masquerading as a resident of New York (not quite a New Yorker).

Housing
Sitting in the back of the family conversion van, wedged between suitcases packed with new business suits, old college textbooks and a few odd pots and pans, I navigated the streets of what I now know to be Spanish Harlem alternately admiring the cute little neighborhood and praying that the building in front of me wasn’t my new apartment. The fact was I had no idea where I was going, but wherever I landed, there was a six-month lease and two new roommates waiting for me.

In the midst of the holiday rush, my apartment search seemed adequate. I profiled potential roommates on Roommates.com, spoke with one of the new roomies and my predecessor on the phone, and mailed my check to the landlord. I knew three basic truths:

1) Roommates.com had worked well for a friend, who relocated to DC.
2) My commute would be easy (one train that stopped a block from the apartment).
3) My friends would be welcomed in the new place.

At the time, that seemed good enough, but when I actually left home, I wasn’t quite so sure. What if it was all a scam, and I had just thrown my first month’s rent (plus deposit) down the drain? What if the apartment was infested with rats? What if these roommates were just better at hiding their craziness than the others already discarded from my list of possibilities?

I’m happy to report that none of these fears became a reality, but after living in the city for two years, I would add a few do’s and don’ts based on my own experience:

DO: Consider a roommate location service. Roommates.com is a great place to find apartments—it’s basically a dating service for roommates, which allows you to narrow your list of potential apartments based on everything from gender, age and sexual orientation to neighborhood and smoking preferences. It also allows you to begin communicating with potential roommates without releasing personal information. CraigsList is a popular alternative, but Roommates.com seems to have more features, particularly if you’re willing to pay a nominal membership fee.

DON’T: Sign a lease without first seeing the apartment. I was very lucky to find a cute, three-story townhouse in which my roommates and I rent the top floor. It’s clean, spacious, and most importantly, safe. But I have also seen some incredibly small, run-down apartments that are way overpriced. It also seems that my rat fears may not have been so far-fetched after all. Be careful!

DO: Live with roommates when you’re new to the City. I know this isn’t for everyone, but it really helped me as I was learning the subway system, looking for the rare “cheap” (or at least affordable) place to eat, meeting people, etc. This was especially true for me because I work for a small company and most of my colleagues are significantly older. It was nice to have roommates who were willing to let me tag along.

DON’T: Move in with people you haven’t met. Again, I was very lucky, but after conducting interviews to replace one of my roommates last summer, I can say first hand that there are a lot of crazy people out there who aren’t necessarily going to answer questions as truthfully as my roommates did. Furthermore, I really didn’t ask enough questions. Think about how schedules will coordinate: Will you be able to get enough sleep to do your job effectively? Will you ever see them? Are you looking for a best friend or a roommate? Also talk about your feelings regarding drinking, smoking, having friends over, having dates spend the night, keeping the place clean, etc. All of this is, of course, in addition to being clear about the rent and what “extras” you may be asked to chip in on (e.g. electric, gas, water, cable, internet, food).

DO: Consider a variety of neighborhoods and think about what’s most important. If you really want to be close to the best bars and restaurants, The Village may be your scene, but rent is high for small spaces. Living in Queens, Connecticut, or New Jersey may be cheaper and allow you to have a car if that’s important to you, but are you willing to spend that much time on the train after a long day’s work? Are you going to be happy spending your time in New York living outside the city? Balance apartment costs, commute, and neighborhood attributes to get the best total package.

DON’T: Blow your whole budget on your apartment. New York housing is expensive; there’s really no way to get around it, and you should have a place that you can truly come home to. That said, it’s been my experience that most New Yorkers spend very little time at home. If you’re moving here, it’s most likely to take advantage of all the opportunities (theatre, concerts, shopping, dining, cocktail hours) the city has to offer. Be sure to leave room in your budget to actually do these things or be prepared to spend a lot of nights at home in your beautiful apartment.

DO: Limit your first lease to six months—or a year at the most. Inevitably, your priority equation will change as you settle into the city, make friends and find your scene. Be sure you have the opportunity to change your living accommodations if and when you need to.

I also encourage new roommates to make themselves at home. Make your own space in common rooms. Ask questions if you’re not sure how bills are handled, if certain items are shared (laundry detergent, cleaning supplies, milk, eggs, etc), or if you’re responsible for household chores. I’ve found it’s much easier to discuss these things upfront than to wait until everyone is frustrated with the current circumstances (read: one roommate feeling that she “always” had to take out the trash while another was “always” cleaning the bathroom).

Living with people is hard—there’s no doubt about it. Know that there will be ugly days, remember you’re not always the easiest person to live with either, and try to have other friends for when things get stressful around the house. Also remember that there are many advantages to having roommates, and the good times (in most circumstances) are right around the corner.

Careers
I’ve always been a workaholic. I really can’t blame that on my migration to NYC, but I can say that, on the whole, New Yorkers seem much more driven by their careers, and the environment is competitive.

I’ve always admired those people who dare to follow their dreams by traveling to a new city even before they’ve secured a job, but for me the right choice was definitely finding the job first, moving here, and starting two days later. Why?

First, New York is expensive. You have to have a job (or a sizable trust fund) to live here, and even the waiter/waitress jobs are competitive. Also, it took me a while to get realistic about the jobs I should be pursuing. It was nice to do that while living at home and to have a bit of a break between college and the “real world”.

Additionally, securing a job prior to the move gave me something to leap into as soon as I arrived. New York can be an overwhelming place, and working full-time provided not only structure, but also a place to begin building a social and professional network.

Of course, that beckons the question: “How do you find a job in NYC if you’re living in another city?” Unfortunately, there is no easy answer. There are general Web sites (e.g. Monster) that may help as well as some sector-specific sites for NYC jobs (Playbill.com and New York Federation for the Arts in the arts community, for example), but a lot of it comes down to who you know. That’s certainly where I would—and did—begin. Speak with professors, alumni, family friends, and anyone else you know (or have even heard about). Don’t limit yourself to only people in your chosen city or career. Remember there are six degrees of separation. After that, it’s really a matter of the time and effort you put into the search and how much you’re willing to put yourself out there. Also, remember to keep an open mind; I never thought I would work in the financial sector, but I truly love my job.

After you get to the city, I strongly encourage getting involved in a variety of activities (the local chapter of the OU alumni association, professional groups, volunteer opportunities, etc) to meet people, network and begin to position yourself for your next career move. A professor told me that no one sleeps in New York—that I should try to get involved in at least three different activities that appeal to diverse interests. This is really valuable advice.

Perhaps the best news is that you don’t have to make a long-term commitment to get involved in the community. Through New York Cares you can volunteer in a variety of activities—one event at a time.

Transportation
My job interview was my first time flying solo, but that wasn’t the part that scared me. No, I was terrified by the cab ride from the airport to my hotel. I can now officially say that I was scammed. I allowed myself to be pulled in by the driver of one of the black “gypsy cabs” and probably paid twice as much as I should have, even though I was sharing a cab with two total strangers. For reference:

1) Gypsy cabs are unmarked black cars that typically allow you to negotiate the fare. They are not regulated, however, so there’s no guaranty of safety (particularly for a tourist traveling alone) or of a fair price. I always wait for the yellow cab.
2) All yellow cabs are licensed and must give you the standard rate. On a recent visit, my parents were quoted a rate $20 higher by the gypsy cab driver. When they responded with the fare I had estimated, the driver immediately pointed to the line for yellow cabs. Learn from this example; tourists are easy prey for opportunistic drivers.
3) Know that you are responsible for all tolls incurred during the trip.
4) Always tip the driver.

After surviving my first cab ride, I absolutely refused to test my luck on the subways. I remember asking someone how their feet survived this city and being assured I’d grow accustomed to it. Some people do, in fact, wear tennis shoes to and from the office, and nearly every woman I know complains how hard the sidewalks are on her shoes, but you do get used to it. Now, if it’s less than twenty blocks, I walk. I always have an umbrella in my purse.

I’ve also learned that New York subways are really very easy to navigate. Stored-value “Metrocards” can be purchased at ticket windows or at machines (you can even use a debit card) at nearly every stop. Rides are $2, no matter how far you travel or how many transfers you make between lines. You can also buy cards that entitle you to unlimited rides for 3, 7 or 30 days. If you’re commuting to work every day, you’re foolish not to get a 30-day card; if you do nothing but go back and forth to work, you’ll redeem the full value with all other outings “free”.

It’s highly advisable to keep a subway map handy in those initial months, but it really doesn’t take long to learn the basics. Just be sure you’re headed in the right direction (check before you cross through the turnstile because you can’t always change mid-course) and remember that, while lines of the same colors may run along the same tracks in Manhattan, they diverge as you enter The Bronx or Brooklyn. Ultimately, my best lesson was not to be afraid to ask for directions. Most people who have mastered the subway are proud of their acquired knowledge and love to show off!

The last piece of my transportation puzzle was the bus system. I had a rather unfortunate bus experience in Columbus, Ohio, and assumed that New York buses would be just as—if not more—confusing. To my surprise, most buses just run straight up and down the avenues with cross-town buses at regular intervals. Metrocards work here, too, or you need $2 in change (no bills).

For a copy of the subway map or a bus schedule, visit the MTA (Metropolitan Transportation Authority) Web site. Additionally, HopStop.com is MapQuest for the NY bus and subway system. Simply type where you are and where you’re going, and it will give you the fastest route or the route with the least stops—you choose.

Fun and Excitement
I would never venture to personally recommend restaurants, bars, or shopping venues, but I will offer two helpful sources. Zagats is the authority for New York restaurants. CitySearch will help you locate almost anything you need.

Most of Manhattan is a grid. Avenues run north and south with First Avenue on the far east side. Streets cut across the island with the lowest numbers toward the south. It’s not a perfect grid, but it’s still good to get in the habit of verifying cross streets at all times (that’s what the cab drivers will be looking for, too).

Only tourists refer to the “Avenue of the Americas”; it’s simply Sixth Avenue to New Yorkers. Additionally, Houston Street is not pronounced like the city in Texas; it’s HOW-ston. Confusing either could make you easy prey to greedy cab drivers.

If you’re an art lover and plan to visit museums regularly, you can actually save money by getting an annual membership that allows unlimited visits. Also be aware that the MoMA (Museum of Modern Art) is free on Friday nights, and the Guggenheim offers reduced admission prices. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is always a “recommended donation,” though most people do pay.

If you just want a closer view of the Statue of Liberty and don’t need to walk around the island or tour the immigration museum on nearby Ellis Island, you can take the Staten Island Ferry for free.

Half-priced theatre tickets are available from the TKTS booths in Times Square and South Street Seaport. Tickets are only available on the day of the performance, so lines are generally long but move reasonably quickly. Many of the most popular shows also have daily raffles for a limited quantity of discounted tickets (generally $20 each) about an hour before the house opens. Check the show’s Web site for details; you can find them all listed on Playbill.com.

I’m sure there are a million other hints I could share, but part of the experience is simply to try new things and learn as you go. And so I bring this column (turned novel) to a close by encouraging any and all to come to New York and to take advantage of every opportunity the Big Apple has to offer. It truly is a city like no other.

Shannon Stucky (BSJ 2003) is an Account Manager with The Torrenzano Group in New York City. Shannon can be reached at sstucky@gmail.com.


URLS for hot links highlighted in the article:
Roommates.com: www.roommates.com
CraigsList: http://newyork.craigslist.org/
Monster: http://www.monster.com/
Playbill.com: http://www.playbill.com/index.php
NYFA: http://www.nyfa.org/level1.asp?id=1
Alumni Association: http://www.ealumni.ohiou.edu/NewHomepages/NY-NJ-CT/
New York Cares: http://www.nycares.org/
MTA: http://www.mta.nyc.ny.us/
HopStop: http://hopstop.com/?city=newyork
Zagats: http://www.zagat.com/
CitySearch: http://newyork.citysearch.com/
MoMA: http://www.moma.org/
The Guggenheim: http://www.guggenheim.org/new_york_index.shtml
The Met: http://www.metmuseum.org/
Staten Island Ferry: http://www.ny.com/cgibin/frame.cgi?url=http://www.ci.nyc.ny.us/html/dot/html/get_around/ferry/statfery.html&frame=/frame/travel.html
TKTS: http://www.tdf.org/tkts/
Playbill.com: http://www.playbill.com/index.php

3 comments:

Gregor J. Rothfuss said...

maps.google.com has public transit directions for New York City, including all commuter rails.

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Unknown said...

good article. this article also has tips on moving to new york, specifically how to choose a new york moving company and other tips specific to moving.